NPower XRP Pure Sine Wave Inverter 2,000W With Remote

NPower XRP Pure Sine Wave Inverter 2,000W With Remote
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Price $379.95

Product Details

The NPower XRP Series Pure Sine Wave Inverter converts 12V DC to clean, reliable 110V AC pure sine wave power. Low harmonic distortion makes this inverter ideal for use with office equipment, HDTVs, Blu-ray players, medical equipment, pumps and other sensitive devices. Delivers up to 90% maximum efficiency. Includes remote control.

The pure sine inverter, which is also referred to as a "true" sine wave, utilizes sine wave in order to provide your appliances with power. A sine wave, which is produced by rotating AC machinery, is the type of wave that is generally provided by the utility company.  Most motors, such as the compressor in your refrigerator, operate better on pure sine wave power.  Pure sine wave power is also safer for computers, TVs and DVD players.  And some rechargable power tools will not charge properly without a pure sine wave inverter.  

The benefits of using a pure sine wave inverter include: 

  • All equipment currently on the market is designed for use with sine waves.
  • Some appliances, particularly microwaves and variable speed motors, will not produce full output if they do not use sine wave power.
  • Some appliances, such as light dimmers and bread makers, will not work at all without sine wave power.
FEATURES + BENEFITS
  • 1,800 Watt continuous output/4,000 surge Watts
  • Operates at low temperatures for long life
  • Soft start system, low battery shutdown, thermal overload protection and short circuit protection provides added safety on the devices it powers
  • Includes three 110V AC outlets, plus a 5V 500mA USB port for added versatility
  • Easy-to-read digital display for output power, input voltage and error indications

KEY SPECS

Item# 31909
Ship Weight 12.0 lbs
Power Supply 12V DC
Continuous Watts 1,800
Surge Watts 4,000
AC Outlets (qty.) 3
True Sine Wave Yes
Soft Start Technology (SST) Yes
Short Circuit Protection Yes
Low Battery Protection Yes

WHAT'S INCLUDED

  • (1) Pure sine wave inverter
  • (1) Remote control

Determining The Size Inverter You Need

Vehicle alternators typically produce about 13.8 to 14.5 volts DC.  A properly charged battery should read between 12.5 and 12.8 volts, so you need the higher alternator output to keep the battery in a fully charged condition and power accessories.  For simplicity sake, we’ll use 14 volts as the typical alternator output.   Typical passenger car and light truck alternators are rated around 50-70 Amps, though higher ratings are becoming more common. Since power in watts is equal to volts times amps, if we use 14 volts and 70 amps, a  typical car can produce about 980 watts (14 volts times 70 amps) without draining your battery.  

Trucks, due to their larger engines, require more power (watts) to turn their engines for starting, so they have larger and higher rated starters, and therefore have a need for larger batteries.  This in turn requires larger alternators to charge the batteries (and accessories).  For example, my Dodge 3500 with a Cummins diesel has a 136 amp alternator to charge two 65 amp/hour batteries.  So, this vehicle produces 1904 watts (14 volts times 136 amps equals 1904) watts. 

You typically want an inverter equal to or just slightly higher than the power output of your alternator  An inverter rated for much higher wattage will be larger, heavier, and more expensive, but won’t produces any more watts than your alternator is rated for.  And an inverter rated a far less that your vehicle can put out limits your capability and may put unnecessary stress your inverter and its components.  In other words, it better to have a slightly high capacity inverter where you are using only 50-80% of its capacity, then one where you are running it at 100% all the time.  Heat is the enemy of electronics, so allowing your  inverter to run a lower loads will extend its life and reliability.  I think a 2000 watt inverter with 4000 watts surge capability is a very good choice as it will be suitable for nearly any vehicle it is attached to.

What Will It Power  

You’ll need to add up the wattage demand you think you’ll need for what you want to power.  My primary goal is to be able to power our refrigerator/freezer so that I can save our food in the event of a prolonged power outage.  I also want about 1000 watts for various other non-essential loads.  You need to consider surge loads for items that have an electric motor, like a pump or compressor…these surge loads can typically be double that of your steady state load.

Our energy star refrigerator shows 8.5 amps on the specification plate inside the door.  Watts= volts x amps, so based on this plate, my refrigerator draws 8.5x120=1020 watts peak/surge load.  However, the spec plat is designed to ensure that the circuit providing power will always exceed the refrigerator draw.  Using a Kill-A-Watt meter, I checked that actual surge load, vice the engineered load.  Testing over several days and a different times, plugging the refrigerator in with the door open so the lights would come on and the compressor would start, yielded a peak of only 626 watts.   After start, the refrigerator draw was only 120 watts with the compressor running, and only 62 watts with the compressor not running.  So, in my case, a 2000 watt inverter is more than sufficient to run our refrigerator and have plenty of watts left over for other items.  We think this size inverter will be a great choice for most people. 

Battery Selection

If your continuous power draw is less than your alternator output, you should be able to run your inverter indefinitely.  However, you may need to tap your battery for periodic surge loads.  Buy a good quality AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) battery…while more expensive, they will last longer and perform much more reliably.  They do not require maintenance (no distilled water additive), and are not prone to leakage and corrosion.  The best measure of a batteries performance is the Reserve Capacity.  Reserve capacity is the number of minutes a battery can maintain a useful voltage under a 25 ampere discharge. The higher the minute rating, the greater the battery's ability to run lights, pumps, inverters, and electronics for a longer period before recharging is necessary.  A 25 Amp. Reserve Capacity Rating is more realistic than Amp-Hour or CCA as a measurement of capacity for deep cycle service.  Batteries promoted on their high Cold Cranking Ratings are easy and inexpensive to build. The market is flooded with them, however their Reserve Capacity, Cycle Life (the number of discharges and charges the battery can deliver) and Service life are often poor. Reserve Capacity is difficult and costly to engineer into a battery and requires higher quality cell materials.  My two PC1750 each have a Reserve capacity of 135 minutes on 25 amps.  That means I can draw 25 amps for 135 minutes, or 350 watts (14 volts x 25 amps) per battery, or 700 watts combined, for over 2 hours. This means a 2000 watt inverter with a 4000 watt surge capability can easily be handled by my trucks electrical system.   

Author: R.A. Funk

 

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